The Mitchell Plateau, Kimberley, Western Australia.

To be read in conjunction with the Gibb River Road trip.

The Mitchell Plateau is situated in the far north of Western Australia. It is a remote and awe inspiring area. Access is either by air or road although it is possible to access certain rivers from the sea.

Geology.

The rocks are of the Proterozoic Age and consist of Carson Volcanics over King Leopold Sandstone.

Geography.

Varying in height from 430 metres at the Southern End it drops to about 290metres at the Northern end. The plateau is rugged and split up by narrow and deep gorges. Numerous waterfalls and waterholes can be found over the plateau (right).

Flora and Fauna.

The rare Livingstonia palm (right) can be seen on the Plateau. Grey Box and Paperbark trees can be seen, the latter along waterways. Pandanus palms are also seen along waterbanks. The leaves of this plant are covered in sharp prickles, it is advised not to grab hold of them.

[picture of Brolga] The birdlife is abundant. Brolga (Native Companions) occur in pairs, and if lucky, you may see their graceful dance (right). Sea-Eagles, Kites, Herons, Pittas and some Rainbow Bee-eaters are other birds often seen, a good pair of binoculars and a camera are essential equipment in this area. Small nocturnal mammals may be heard rather than seen around your camp at night. A small Rock-wallaby (Warabi) is endemic to the Kimberley.

Reptiles are common. The less social representatives are:

Mulga snake(King Brown).
The Death Adder.
Western Taipan.

These are all highly venomous snakes with efficient venom delivery!! Remember, you are at least 2 days drive from help although a helicopter is stationed at the Mitchell Falls "Car-Park" in tourist season.

Crocodile, this one in Kakadu NT Below the Falls, the Estuarine Crocodile is awaiting unwary swimmers. These relics from the past also inhabit the rivers out to the coast. They are very dangerous (right)!

Many harmless lizards, skinks and snakes are also to be found.

European History.

In 1644, Abel Tasman charted the area between Cape York and the North-West Cape and was the first European to visit the Kimberley and landed men from three ships on the coast somewhere north of Broome. They received a non too friendly welcome from the local Aboriginal population.

In 1688, William Dampier made the first of two visits to this area and he beached his vessel (Cygnet) in Cygnet Bay-[just South of the Bardi people's community at One Armed Point.]

His second visit (Roebuck) took him to Roebuck Bay at Broome.

Phillip King (between 1818 and 1822) surveyed the Kimberley Coast and it was he who named many of the features after William Dampier.

In 1837, John Wickham captained the Beagle (of Charles Darwin fame) and surveyed the coast.

At the same time, George Grey (ostensibly of the same party) had made his way to Hanover Bay (near the St. George Basin at the mouth of the Prince Regent River) to start a land exploration of the area. Grey managed to force his way across what is now the Kunmunya Aboriginal reserve to identify the Glenelg and Sale Rivers. In the process, he had several encounters with the locals and during one fight was wounded.

"I had not made two steps in advance when three spears struck me nearly at the same moment, one of which was thrown by him. I felt severely wounded in the hip, but knew not exactly where the others had struck me."

In the late 1870's the demand for stock pastures was such that Alexander Forrest persuaded the pastoralists of the Pilbara to equip an expedition to look for suitable territory in the Kimberley. Leaving the DeGrey Station he move to the 8o Mile Beach and on to Beagle Bay. He explored the King Leopold Ranges suffering great loss of horses and causing poor health in his party. During this trip he visited Lennard River Gorge, Bell Gorge and camped (F93) at the lower end of Geike Gorge. He headed eastwards and passing to the north of (now) Halls Creek (nr. Mount Barrett) and passing north east to the site of (now) Ord River Regeneration Station he crossed the Ord River and continued east across the Nicholson Plains and onto the Trans Australian Telegraph Line at Daly Waters.

In 1899 Frank Hann explored this area to include and name the River Adcock. He also visited the Charnley river, the Ord river north of Hall's Creek and the Leopold Ranges.

In 1901, F.S. Brockman, a senior member of the Survey Department, with Mr. Charles Crossland explored the area south from Wyndham between the 14th and 17th parallels of latitude and west from the 128th meridian.

Comments on the Plateau.

Rather than a blow by blow account of driving onto the Plateau and its associated tracks, I will give some generalisations. Entry from the Gibb River Road to Drysdale Station is easy. Occasional water crossings are required but, in the dry, can be upto 30cm deep. Forget it after heavy rain in the wet season.!! Fuel is available at Drysdale station as well as limited food, some accommodation and cold drinks. Prices are naturally higher than in the towns. There is an airstrip for pleasure flights and private aircraft landing. After you leave Drysdale, there are more water crossings and the track starts to deteriorate. A left turn (marked) takes you onto the Plateau track and straight on takes you to the Kalumburu community. Permits to enter the community are required, these are obtained from Perth in advance. The people of Kalumburu are friendly and limited camping is permitted. Fishing and such like are good and escorted trips by the locals are good value.

King Edward River picture Heading onto the Plateau from the Left turn, the track deteriorates further and becomes corrugated. The main waterway to cross is the King Edward river (right) and good camping is available on both sides. Aboriginal Rock art can be seen - if you search.

You can make this your base camp for full exploration of the area or continue over narrow tracks, steep inclines and water crossings to the Mitchell Falls "Carpark". Camping again is available and a tourist Helicopter is based here during the dry season. From here, it is a 2-3 hour cross country walk to the head of the Mitchell Falls.

Bush walking requires good preparation and experience. It is not a good place to get lost. Using the vehicle as a base camp, it is possible to walk and bush camp away from people and then appreciate the true remoteness of the area.

Rather than turn down to the falls carpark, it is possible to continue north and another side track takes you to the Surveyors Pool. From where you leave the vehicle to the pool and return is a full day. water is available at the pool. We prefer to purify the water prior to drinking - either with "Micropur" tablets or a water filter. This again may be overkill, but it not a place to be sick.

If you do leave your vehicle overnight, leave a note on it as to when you will return. If you are not back, a search can be generated when the vehicle is discovered.

Further on, you start a steep rutted track up to Point Warrender, here your company are sandflies and Crocodiles. The fishing is O.K.

Further information from Nigel Buxton

Go to the Australian or WA pages