The Gibb River Road.

The Gibb River Road is situated in the Kimberley Region of Western Australia. It traverses the cattle regions and is used to transport cattle by road from the various cattle stations of the region. The road starts at Derby and ends at the Great Northern Highway between Kununurra and Wyndham. It is approximately 660 kms in length, and apart, from short stretches of bitumen, is a graded gravel road. Between Derby and the Mount Barnett Roadhouse the surface is good, it deteriorates shortly after until Jack's Waterhole and then once again becomes good. The area is remote but with the more readily availability of 4WD vehicles, is becoming very popular in the dry season. The road runs through some of the most picturesque country in Australia and many of the gorges are superb. Roads lead off the Gibb River Road into more remote areas, some of these will be described.

The Start

For the sake of convenience, I start the description from the southern end of the road.

Derby is a small town situated 2400 kms north of Perth. Access to Derby is either by air to Broome and then road (220kms), or by road. It is found on the edge of King Sound. All facilities are available and the people are friendly. Attractions around Derby are:

• Myall's bore.
• Prison Boab Tree.
• Derby Jetty.

This is your last chance to check over your vehicle before departure. Drive belts, hoses and suspension should be checked and all bolts tightened. It is no bad thing to give your radios a transmission check.

The turn onto the Gibb River Road is well signposted.

Derby to Mount Barnett Roadhouse.

This is the easiest part of the trip, it can be negotiated in a conventional vehicle- in dry conditions. Rain renders the surface slippery and some creeks to run. This will prevent 2WD access. The side tracks to most gorges require high clearance vehicles.

Lennard River Gorge

This is the first of the gorges you reach. The turn off is 192 kms up the Gibb River Road on the right. The track into this gorge is rated 4WD only. High clearance is certainly needed but, in July 1996, I did not require 4WD. One small creek has to be crossed and the climb out is moderately steep. There is a turning circle at the end of the track and camping is permitted. There is a rocky walk down to the top of the gorge and it is possible to descend to the base of the cliffs. Experienced rock climbers are able to climb the opposite face of the gorge, it is steep and ropes are essential. Swimming is possible.

Returning to the main road, the next gorge is off to the left approx.23 kms on. The track in is rough and 4WD may be necessary. Water crossings need to be made but these are not too deep. If in doubt, walk them first. One creek has a twisting approach and if you approach too fast, there is a real risk of a roll over. You pass a Ranger station at Silent Grove, there is a small camp ground here or if you are lucky one of the riverside sites will be free. This is on a ticket system with first come, first choice applying. There are 10 of these sites. As you drive past these sites, you reach a car park and it is a walk of approx. 1km down to questionably the prettiest gorge on the Gibb River Road.

The walk down is steep in part so take care. The gorge is Bell Gorge (right) and you can walk down to the base of the falls where swimming is great. This gorge does become crowded, we counted 30 vehicles at the last visit! You can easily spend all day or longer here. Derby residents come here for a day or week-end trip.

main road.

The next turn off is into Adcock's Gorge (left). This is a rocky track into a small parking area. Rock hopping from the parking area takes you to a small waterhole with lilies. Keep on past this and you reach a delightful deep waterhole surrounded on three sides by high rocks. This is a great place to cool off. The parking are is large enough for 3 vehicles and camping is good.

The next gorge is close to the main road (about 1km). This again has good camping and the waterhole is beautiful. It is called Galvin's Gorge. It is often closed off in July due to stock mustering. Walking in this area is fun.

The next landmark is Mount Barnett Roadhouse, 87 kms from the Bell Gorge turn off. Fuel, limited supplies and the local Aboriginal Community sell some artwork here. They run a large camping ground on the Manning Gorge and there are walks up the river to the Upper Manning Gorge. If you are observant, you will see good examples of rock art on the walk. The water is safe to swim in. This is a popular camping area, we saw over 50 vehicles on the last visit. The first time we went to this area, we saw only 1 other vehicle belonging to an ornithologist. It is getting crowded.

28 kms from the Mount Barnett Roadhouse, is found the turn off to Barnett River Gorge. This is a pretty gorge. The access track is rough in part. Camping is free, a change to the fees charged at bell Gorge and Mount Barnett. Unlike those two camp areas however, the facilities are nil.

79 kms from Barnett River Gorge turn off is the junction with the Kalumburu road. This is the turn off towards the Mitchell Plateau.

From the Kalumburu turnoff, the road becomes more corrugated and the vehicle suspension works overtime. Finding the correct speed to travel is a matter of experience, we find 80kph works well, but slowing down for any reason and the vehicle shudders. This happy state of affairs lasts until the turn into Jack's Waterhole (left) on Durack station. This is a very popular stopping spot with permanent, safe water for swimming, ablution blocks, limited stores and homestay (with prior booking) is possible. The people there are friendly. Fuel is not available - in spite of what the tourist books say!!

As you leave Jack's Waterhole, you cross a jump up. This has a sharp drop on one side and at the wrong time of day, the sun hits you between the eyes. This area has been sealed to try and reduce the number of accidents. This is road train country, they are NOT able to dodge you, look out!

A road train is a prime mover pulling upto 3 double-decker trailers (right) and can be upto 50 metres long.

Continuing north, you cross the Pentecost River. The base of the crossing is rocky and slippery. It is usually wet - even at the end of the dry season. In the wet, it may be impassable. This is estuarine crocodile country - don't swim.

Immediately past the Pentecost, the old Karunjie Road heads towards Wyndham. It is only passable in the dry as it crosses mud flats.

The main Gibb River Road continues past El Questro station (a Commercial operation that caters for all tastes and price brackets). It has pretty gorges, but unlike many of the gorges on the Gibb River Road, it costs money to visit them.

The road ends at the junction with Victoria highway, 45 kms from Kununurra. (A big recommendation for the Kimberleyland Caravan Park, it is great.)

References.

• Dampier's Voyages, Masefield J. Grant, Richards 1906.
• Expeditions in Western Australia (2 vols), Grey G., Hesperian Press 1837-1839.
• The History of the North-West of Australia, Battye J. S., Hesperian Press.
• North-West Exploration, Forrest A., Corkwood Press 1996.
• Journal of Expedition from DeGrey River to Port Darwin.
• Discoveries in Australia, Stoke J. L., LBSA 1969.
  With an account of the coasts and rivers explored and surveyed during the voyage of H.M.S. Beagle in the years 1837-43.
• The Kimberley, Australian Geographic.
• The Kimberley, an Adventurer's Guide, Ron and Viv Moon.
  (This probably the single most useful book available for a driving tour.)
• Biological Survey of Mitchell Plateau and Admiralty Gulf, Kimberley, WA, W.A. Museum Publication.
• Flora of the Kimberley, C.A.L.M.
• Broome and Beyond, C.A.L.M.
• The Plants and People of the Dampier Peninsula.
• Fossil Downs, MacKenzie G., Capricorn.
• A Saga of the Kimberley Australia's Longest Droving Trip.

URL:/Places/Au/WA.html

Interesting Reading.

• Jandamarra and the Bunuba Resistance, Pedersen H. & Woorunmurra B. Magabala.
• The story of Pigeon.
• Forrest River Massacres, Green N. F.A.C.P.
• The Rivers of Home, Nixon M. Vanguard.
• Packhorse and Waterhole, Buchanan G., Hesperian Press.
• Overland Droving from Queensland, Lamond G. H., Hesperian Press.
• To WA in 1885. Hall's Creek Gold Rush.
• Maps Street Smart, East Kimberley, West Kimberley

For more details contact Nigel Buxton 1996 -->

Go to the Australia or WA pages