Empress Springs Trip.
Easter 1996
In 1896 David Carnegie was led (after using a little persuasion) by
an Aboriginal guide to an underground cave. In this cave, a small
tunnel led to a small water supply. This may well have
saved the life of the party.
He called this water Empress Springs. He used Ernest Giles
as a precedent after Giles had named Queen Victoria Springs in 1875.
We went out to visit Empress Springs in the Centenary of its discovery.
The Group.
We took 4 four wheel drive vehicles and 2 trail bikes: a Caigeva
and a Paris-Dakar BMW.
The 4WD vehicles were
our 80 series Diesel LandCruiser,
our 60 series Diesel LandCruiser
(modified as the 80 series less the H.F. radio and GPS),
a Mitsubishi Starwagon (this family had been with
us on previous trips),
and a Land Rover Discovery Tdi. The last couple were beginners.
The LandCruisers carried the supplies for the bikies -
including a block of 30 fire-extinguishers each rider.
(I am sure George C will enlighten those who don't carry
such essentials.)
The Trip.
We departed Perth on the Thursday evening and headed towards
Southern Cross where we collected the Discovery and its crew.
The bikes had gone on ahead the day before to make time in daylight.
The Starwagon again was making its own way east to join us at Coolgardie.
The full group was assembled by 2300 hrs that night.
We drove on another 100 clicks before camping.
On Friday, we headed towards Laverton and a refuelling stop.
Then it was onto the Warburton road. This is a good graded dirt road -
in the dry.
We ambled along admiring the scenery before taking a right
onto a small track. Hubs were locked (where fitted) and we followed
a dirt track down to Lang Rock (right). Lunch was taken here.
A rock had been painted by a "dogger" with a brief diary.
Fortunately, he had been found before he did perish.
We cut across various easy tracks to
cut the Warburton road further east. I had been told
of a sinkhole on the North side of the Old Warburton Road and planned
to camp there.
A track was found that headed in the correct
direction and after following it
for a few clicks, we stopped the convoy. On getting out of the
vehicle, we almost fell into the hole! (S27#19.95'E124#21.2').
This is the Wurr sinkhole (left).
It heads straight down and has a sandy base. It usually
reflects the base of the Empress Springs. It is narrow and can be climbed
with the aid of rope from a Roo bar.
The evening was spent around a fire with a good meal and glass of
Margaret River[*] red wine.
An early start was made the next morning. Following a dirt track
we passed feral camels and more classical local fauna. Joining the
Warburton road again we headed to Tjurkirla Roadhouse.
(313 kms from Laverton - Direct).
After the bikes and some of the vehicles were refuelled,
and the best cappuccino outside Perth, we hit the
road again. We backtracked 16 kms and turned onto
the Eagle "Highway". The first 15 kms were good and lulled
one into a false sense of security. The Roadhouse people had
warned us about the track and, as anywhere in the bush, they were
correct.
Soft sand was the first snag, no worries,
all vehicles went through. The heavier bike had
a few problems but just needed a little extra acceleration.
He almost reached atmospheric escape velocity!
Washouts were a problem (right),
some required low range driving, others could be skirted around.
The beginners had a few scares but managed eventually.
UHF radios were used to encourage them through.
3 hours and 30 kms later, we arrived at a tin plate on a stick.
This was Empress Springs (below).
(S26#45.98' E124#21.70')
Empress Spring Western Australia
Camp was made and we settled down for a pleasant afternoon.
A group from Kalgoorlie had placed a chain ladder down into
the cave, and this made life easier for many of us.
The kids were quite happy climbing. In the cave,
mulga poles with
foot grips were present. These were probably made by the
Desert Dwellers who used to visit regularly.
The water site was damp but not flush with water. The cave was
fascinating place but you do need to take a good torch into it.
The following day, we returned towards Laverton. The washouts
were easier going back! Back on the main Warburton
road, we turned westwards. Stopping to see the limited
rock art at Beegull, we were horrified at the vandalism
to the site. There are rockholes
at the top of the breakaway. This site is
on the south of the road and a large wooden cross
can be seen marking the site. The significance of
the cross at this site is unknown to me. An explorers'
cairn (Payne and Barclay) is also at this site (left).
(S27#42.38' E124#10.48')
It had rained in the area between Beegull and Laverton and the road
was covered in standing water. Chris and Stewart took the
dogs for a walk through the water. The base was sound for
the most part and only 30 cm deep. We all crossed
with no problems
except the Discovery. He tried to go sideways through it.
It didn't work so after lining up again, there were no problems.
We went to the Grand Hotel at Kookynie (a great bush pub)
for a delayed midday repast.
We overnighted at Niagara Dam (right), a small replica of
Mundaring Dam, and returned home on Easter Monday.
Summary.
A good trip, standard easy to moderate. Historically fascinating. Best time
to visit, October/November when the wildflowers are at their best.
A dry trip (No water available between
Laverton and Kookynie). Fuel available at Laverton and Tjurkirla.
Take snatch strap and shovel.
Next summary. Carawine Gorge in the Pilbara
Remember: Everyone can follow a different track
but they all end up looking at the same
sunset.
Nigel Buxton
Go to the
Hunt Oil Road,
WA
and
Australian
pages
[*] Margaret River - a wine
growing area in the S.W. of W.A., ed.
22 April 1997:
Nigel Buxton
reports that the Eagle Highway is now called David Carnegie Road
and is signposted from Great Central Road (renamed from Laverton - Warburton
road).
A group from Kalgoorlie placed the ladder.
These folk were:
Martin Hayes (leader), Rex & Helen Astrand,
Arthur & Loretta Dryesdale, Mick &
Sue Harris plus others.
- N.B.
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