Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) National Park WA.

Position.

Purnululu National Park is found 110 kms north of Halls Creek , 260 kms south of Kununurra in the eastern Kimberley region of Western Australia. Halls Creek is approximately 2900 kms from Perth (by road). The nearest major airport is at Kununurra.

200,000 hectares in area including 45,000 hectares of the Bungle Bungle Range and 110,000 hectares as a conservation reserve.

Access.

Entry to the park is by air or four wheel drive (4WD) vehicle. By air, tours leave from Kununurra or Halls Creek. Flights over the park (Fixed or rotary wing) leave from Kununurra, Halls Creek or Warmum (Turkey Creek). Vehicle access is by tour group or self driven. The track in is slow and rough. Allow 3 hours for the 50 kms between the highway and the registration area.

European History.

In the late 1870's the demand for stock pastures was such that Alexander Forrest persuaded the pastoralists of the Pilbara to equip an expedition to look for suitable territory in the Kimberley. Leaving the DeGrey Station he move to the 8o Mile Beach and on to Beagle Bay. He explored the King Leopold Ranges suffering great loss of horses and causing poor health in his party. During this trip he visited Lennard River Gorge, Bell Gorge and camped (F93) at the lower end of Geike Gorge. He headed eastwards and passing to the north of (now) Halls Creek (nr. Mount Barrett) and passing north east to the site of (now) Ord River Regeneration Station he crossed the Ord River and continued east across the Nicholson Plains and onto the Trans Australian Telegraph Line at Daly Waters.

As Forrest passed towards Ord Station, he would have seen the South-eastern extremity of the (now) Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) National Park.

"To the North there was nothing promising, all rough and rangy, and taking all things into consideration, I feel thankful that we are on this instead of the Northern route which, with my limited means and sick party, would have been far from a pleasant one to follow." - 26th July 1879.

The area stayed a secret of the local pastoralists and Aboriginal people until it sprang to national and international recognition after a filmed documentary in 1982.

The area was declared a National park in 1987 and is under the management of the Department of Conservation and Land Management (CALM). The local indigenous people have a major input concerning the access areas of the park.

Within the Park.

Tracks within the park are fairly rough. Some are definitely 4WD only and in areas - e.g. approaching Piccaninny Creek - you are instructed to lower tyre pressures. This is to preserve the tracks and environment as well as to make life easier for the drivers. Remaining in 2WD ruins the tracks for others and increases your risks of skidding.

The track into the park from the highway is signposted and initially passes through Mabel Downs station. Whilst initially O.K. , it does have a few washouts and rough patches. It has however, certainly improved over the last few years. Occasional water crossings are needed and these present no difficulty in the dry. The park is closed during the wet season (Approx. Jan to April). Camping on the entry track requires prior permission from the station owners. Calico Springs has a good camping spot and it is this spring that presents the hardest water crossing into the park. Look out for submerged rocks.

The tracks in the park are soft sand so treat them with respect. You will also experience severe corrugations.

There is a tendency for self-drive hire vehicles to drive over fast in the park and also to use the wrong side of the tracks (where there is an option). This can present a danger - especially on blind corners and steep hill crests.

Parking areas are available at all major places of interest.

Facilities.

Water, pit toilets and wood bar-b-ques are available at the 2 camping areas. The camp areas have bays suitable for individuals and small groups. A separate tour bus camping area is also present. Generators are tolerated in a separate area near the tour buses. A ranger is based in the park and gives illustrated talks most evenings. Rubbish bins are not provided, take out your own rubbish. Don't leave rubbish on the ground at night, it attracts unwanted visitors.

Places to see.

Echidna Chasm (below left), Cathedral Gorge (right), Frog Hole and Mini-Palms Gorge (below right) are all readily accessible. Each involves a walk of varying distance and difficulty. The walk into Cathedral Gorge is easy. Echidna Chasm provides a chance to clamber over rocks and to squeeze through small spaces. Mini-Palms involves some degree of difficulty. The first 1km is over loose river rocks and the remainder involves rock hopping and is of moderate difficulty. For Frog Hole and Echidna Chasm, it is advisable to carry a good torch. All these places are worth the effort.

A word of caution: it is possible to be injured in these gorges, carry a good support bandage for lower limb injuries. It is hard to retrieve a person from them and it may be necessary for them to hobble out to a place where a vehicle can used.

Carry plenty of water.

Piccaninny Creek gives the opportunity for a long walk and overnight camp. This is 8 hrs one way. The walk is of moderate severity and you must be totally self- reliant. Water is not available. Notify the ranger before attempting the walk.

The Bee-Hives (below right) are synonymous with the Bungle Bungles. They are best see from the air and rotary wing trips over the area is strongly recommended. Heliworks (tel: +61 (91) 691300, fax: +61(91)681129) have helicopters based at the airstrip, but it is advised to pre-book your trip. They are extremely popular and if you leave it until the last minute, you could easily be disappointed.

Geology.

A structural plateau of Devonian Elder Sandstone approximately 350 million years old. It is cut by numerous deep gorges and ravines. The plateau is roughly 300 metres above sea level. The "Bee-Hives are composed of sandstone with black bands of lichen. The bee-hives are extremely fragile and even natural erosion is devastating. People are forbidden to walk or climb the bee-hives.

To the south-west of the massive, the rocks are Archean Sedimentary and Metamorphic rocks.

Flora and Fauna.

There is abundant bird life and many reptiles. Agile Wallabies and Euros (varieties of Macropod) may also be seen. You do however need to be alert.

Spinifex covers the limestone surfaces. Numerous species of Eucalypt are seen on the plateau. Within the Gorges, a unique variety of Livingstonia palm can be seen. Many other new species of plant have been described in the National Park.

A bird list of the species of birds in the park is available from the author.

Comments

Allow three days in the park. Entry fee covers 7 days camping. References. See the Gibb River Road article by same author. For further information, please contact: Nigel Buxton

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