 |
|
|
|
In the first article, I described briefly how we prepared our trucks for a trip into the bush. This article will describe how we prepare a simple trip and take you to a popular travel destination. Kakadu is suitable in some areas for a conventional vehicle but there are also some parts that are definitely 4WD only. We are going into Toyota Country - others keep out!
Kakadu National Park is 4157kms from Perth via the Gunbarrel Highway or 4380kms via Highway 1 but with no side trips to towns after Port Hedland. This is not a weekend trip for anyone but for those who live in Darwin (250kms from Kakadu). We use the Gunbarrel Highway out of choice.
If this is your first trip, it is worth reading one of the many excellent books on the area, the prehistory, the art; the flora and fauna are quite special. The truck is given a good service with emphasis on engine mounts, suspension, batteries and anything that could vibrate loose. Radios are checked.
A rough schedule is worked out; this will give an idea of the amount of food and water that need to be carried. The return to Western Australia means no fresh fruit and vegetables can be brought back. The route is planned to enable fresh replacements to be acquired promptly. Pre-cooked meals are prepared and deep-frozen. All fruit and veggies are individually wrapped.
We trace out the route and work out fuel stops, the advantage of carrying 250 litres of diesel means we can refill at the cheapest prices. After stopping all mail and postal deliveries we leave.
Kakadu National Park is the largest National Park in Australia and is approximately 20,000 square kilometres in area. Famous for the various Aboriginal art galleries as well as the exquisite scenery. Recently, the southern entry from Pine Creek has been sealed with a bridge over the South Alligator River. At the times we visited, the river had to be crossed (below).
This cruiser had a problem mid way and lost all electrics.
The driver had been wading around the truck but had not looked upstream.
"Alligator" River is a misnomer; the residents are less social.
This is the home of the Estuarine (Saltwater) Crocodile
(below left).
To help this bloke (above right), we threw out a 30-metre snatch strap and pulled him high up the bank. He had the fun of attaching the strap!
This means access to the Park is now all weather. However, in the Wet Season (December to end of March), many internal roads and tracks are closed due to flooding.
One the occasions we have been to Kakadu, the tracks to Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls have been closed and the only way to see them has been by helicopter. The track down is definitely 4WD and not for the foolhardy. Tours for 4WD deprived are available. These are conducted in 75 series Diesel LandCruisers (11 seaters).
Aboriginal Art galleries are sited at Nourlangie Rock
and Ubirr Rock. In the wet, the tracks are closed.
This is due to the creeks running high and fast, the level may rise 2 metres
above the level in the dry. 2 examples of rock art are shown.
One is the Thylacine (Tasmanian Tiger) showing that this now extinct
animal did range as far north as Kakadu.
The other is Namarrgon (Lightning Man) a Dreamtime Spirit.
There are several styles of art of which X-ray style,
post dynamic and naturalistic are three. Some artwork goes back 20,000 years
at least.
The Estuarine Crocodile is the most famous of the animals to be seen.
Water Buffalo (photo), dingo, Macropods (Kangaroo family) are visible
and the bird life is amazing. Hides are set up in various
areas and one can watch the scene expand around you.
The Blue Winged Kookaburra is one bird to look for, it
is quite quiet compared to the raucous song of its cousin the
Laughing Kookaburra.
Formal sites are available as well as backpackers' accommodation and motel rooms. (Stay at the Crocodile Motel at Jabiru - shaped like a giant Crocodile you enter via the jaws.)
We prefer to camp on a billabong (photo) and these are accessible
via sandy and rough 4WD tracks. Always camp away from
the edge of the water or you could become the main course
of a Croc's lunch.
Safe swimming is available in Gunlom Falls near the southern entrance
to the Park.
A small shopping area is sited at Jabiru (right); this township developed because of the Ranger Uranium mine nearby (tours available).
The Ranger Station has hands on displays and a large range of information leaflets covering various aspects of the National Park. A new Aboriginal run information area has opened near Yellow Waters. This is the site of the better Backpackers' accommodation as well as boat cruises on the Yellow Waters.
The 4WD tracks range from easy to difficult. Sand, washouts and rivers are the main obstacles. The remoteness of some areas makes you think twice as to whether you need to use the track. If in doubt, don't go. Make sure someone knows if you go into the wilder areas and when you plan on being back. Look out for bushfires. Buffalo do not lie down if you tickle their noses (Crocodile Dundee), they just get upset! They will take over the road and if so, just wait.
Available, green ants are a delicacy! Just take off leaf by the head and eat the body. They have a lime/lemon taste and are high in vitamin C. You can make a nice drink by perfusing their nests in hot water. Let it go cold and drink, used as a remedy against the common cold. Bush apples, yams, water lilies, file snake, goanna, flying foxes are all eaten but mainly by the traditional owners.
In summary, this is great place to visit as part of a trip to the Northern Territory. From Western Australia, it is a good (but long) trip to travel across the Gunbarrel Highway, upto Darwin and Kakadu before returning via Katherine and into the Kimberley Region (Gibb River Road, Mitchell Plateau and Purnululu National Park for example.)
Distances are long and you may, in some areas not see another vehicle for 2 or 3 days, longer if you are lucky.
You can safely drive the more popular areas in a rental cruiser, extreme modifications are unnecessary. However, a second complete spare wheel and means to repair a puncture are mandatory. (See [offroad].)
See also Northern Territory and Australia 4WD pages
