Wheel Chains

There are various styles of wheel chain. The simplest and most common is the ladder type. Diamond chains do provide better sideways grip but they are generally more expensive. The better chains have twisted links that lie flat across the tyre and do not "work" as it revolves. It is important that they have good lever tensioners to get them nice and tight.

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Four wheel drives are required to carry wheel chains at the ski resorts, although often they are not asked to fit them. Chains can also be useful in summer - if you get caught out by unexpected rain on a clay track, for example. Remember that it is much easier to fit them before you get stuck. If you buy chains, fit them at least once at home (on a warm sunny day) so that you know how to do it and also know that they really do fit.

Some chains, particularly for cars, have hoops of some kind that are at least partially self-supporting to make passing them over the tyre easier. The heavier chains generally are of all chain construction, ie. limp. Most four wheel drives have wide wheel arches which makes fitting chains quite easy. However, it is a dirty job and a cold one in the snow. Having a water-proof jacket, gloves, and something to kneel on makes it more pleasant.

The following applies to most vehicles, but check the manufacturer's handbook for any special conditions that apply to your vehicle. For example, Toyota advise not to fit chains to the front wheels of the Prado.

Chains are fitted to the driving wheels of a 2WD car - front or rear as appropriate. Fitting them to the front wheels tends to give superior steering and fitting them to the rear tends to give superior traction. It is probably better to have them on the rear wheels for a steep descent to keep the rear end under closer control. Wheel-chains can be fitted to all four wheels (but see above).

To fit ladder chains, lay them on the ground where the tyre will roll. The tensioners and all hard corners should end up on the outside. Make sure that the chains are not twisted - this is very easy to forget on a cold, wet day. If facing uphill it may be easier to lay the chains behind the wheels and roll backwards onto them. The job is much easier if you place blocks of wood between the links at appropriate points and drive onto them - the chains will not be trapped by the tyres and they will be easier to "jiggle" around and adjust. Engage 4WD on a part-time 4WD vehicle and engage the centre diff' lock on a full-time 4WD vehicle. Drive onto the chains (or blocks) so that the chain-ends will be at a convenient point (either 3 or 9 o'clock) for joining. Pass each chain over the top of its tyre. It can be a pig of a job to wriggle them over the lugs of an aggressive tyre. Join the inside connector first, then the outside tensioner, making it as tight as possible. Make sure that any spare chain cannot flail about and damage something - the brakes or steering for example. Tie up loose chain ends, either by stuffing them onto the connectors and tensioners, or by using some wire brought along for the purpose.

Drive a short distance (remembering to pick up your blocks of wood), check and retension the chains. Drive slowly. Remember that the chains might strike the chassis or bodywork on full lock. Listen for any clattering that indicates a chain has come loose and might be striking important components.

To remove ladder-type chains, undo the tensioners and connectors, lay the chains flat and drive off them. Chains with hoops require freeing, and moving the car until the ends are at the bottom, when they can be worked free.

A hessian sack is a good thing to store chains in as it breathes and lets water out. Lastly, chains are heavy objects and should be stowed safely in case of accident.

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